Recovering from a spontaneous pneumothorax and coping with the loss of some of that youthful feeling of immortality have consumed my last week for the most part. It has not been fun, but as much as I resist it, a forced rest is probably a good thing for me. I’ve been branching out…
Posted on May 23, 2013
Posted on May 8, 2013
Two weekends ago I took a quick trip down to Tucson, Arizona to teach a PCI Clinic at The Bloc Climbing & Fitness along with Kevin Jorgeson and Alex Johnson. The atypical amount of April snow in Boulder was starting to get me down, so it was nice to venture down to warmer climates. I was also really excited to interact with the community of climbers in Arizona and check out the city a bit.
Posted on March 15, 2013
Last week my brother Giovanni and I boarded a plane for Paris, France for his first European climbing adventure. Having spent a lot of time expanding my global perspective over the last few years, I was eager…
Posted on January 4, 2013
Blowtorching holds to dry them. This is a practice that was largely unknown to me until my trip to Sweden this last September. Here’s a little backstory. I was invited to come climb in Vastervik, Sweden for the International Boulder Meet by the Tourism Bureau.
Posted on December 21, 2012
Chasing Winter is a film project that has consumed much of my life for the last 6 months. Together with my girlfriend Mary Mecklenburg and with our good friends Paul Robinson and Alex Kahn, we traveled to South Africa for the months of June, July, and August this past year with the intent of progressing as filmmakers and climbers.
Posted on November 27, 2012
From my good friend Cameron Maier at Bear Cam Media comes a feature length bouldering film about our time in Vastervik, Sweden at the end of September. Great times with friends, tons of high quality boulders, and a few trips to the sauna! The trip was a blast. Check it out!
Posted on November 20, 2012
After another day of coming agonizingly close to my current project in Brione yesterday and it was back to Valle Bavona today. This time in the company of Jan Hojer and his girlfriend Lulu. (I had the opportunity to meet and climb with Jan in Rocklands this past summer and I’m sure most are familiar with the incredible trip he had). My main objective was to check out Nalle’s new climb Momentum and possibly give a few tries to the Cart Project made famous by Chris Sharma in one of the Big Up’s Dosage Films.
Posted on November 16, 2012
In early October I, returned to one of my favorite climbing areas in the world. SWITZERLAND! This place is truly on another level. Scenery and rock quality are top notch. More quality lines than I will ever know what to do with.
Posted on October 2, 2012
Blog post up soon on Five Ten. Here are some nice photos by Dominik Hadwiger from the week:
Posted on July 20, 2012
On rare occasions does the excitement of sending your project last more than a day before the next struggle begins. I’m happy to say that the next one for me is going to be a lot more difficult than the last. 5 moves of pure power out a roof on flat edges and slopers. My favorite!
Posted on July 16, 2012
Wow. It’s been far too long since I’ve written a blog post. I’ve sat down many times with the intention of writing one over the last month and a half, but the inspiration hasn’t been there. My life has taken some exciting turns and I feel it’s important to bring everyone up to speed before I attempt to return to a more regular blogging schedule. So here goes…
Posted on May 29, 2012
In the Spring of 2012, four of America’s Best Boulderers converged in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado in search of something new. Follow along as Dave Graham, Paul Robinson, Carlo Traversi, and Daniel Woods, establish and repeat some of the world’s most difficult boulder problems that surround the now infamous Bear Lake Road.
Posted on May 6, 2012
A couple of weeks ago I headed out climbing with Dave Graham to check out a new area in RMNP called Wild Basin. It would be his second time up the canyon and our mission was to explore some of the upper talus fields that looked promising on Google Earth.
Posted on May 3, 2012
Aside from staying in shape On The Circuit, editing video, and doing a little bit of skating; I’ve spent a few days over the last week hanging in a harness out in Clear Creek Canyon with Daniel Woods on his new “Mission Impossible Project”.
Posted on April 21, 2012
The collection of boulders within close proximity to Bear Lake Road and the surrounding “road areas” around Estes Park are approaching legendary status. We call it “The Circuit”. For the last few weeks, I’ve been “On The Circuit” with Paul Robinson, Daniel Woods, Matty Hong, Jonny Hork, Dave Graham, Cameron Maier, and a host of other talented individuals. It has been amazing.
Posted on March 20, 2012
The weather continues to be on the warm side, but we’ve been making up for it by climbing all the classics from V7-V11. It’s been a real pleasure. I can’t even describe how amazing this place truly is. A historical mecca, a visionary captital, and a true proving ground for the modern boulderer in pursuit of becoming a master of the realm. I’ve been shooting a TON of video and I can’t wait to share it in FULL LENGTH MOVIE form. In the meantime, here are some video screenshots from the last 2 days:
Posted on March 13, 2012
Consumed by the forest, I’ve finally extracted myself for long enough to write a little post. First off, it’s been uncharacteristically warm here, so hard climbing has been difficult. I’ve been trying anyway, with very little success. It’s ok though. I’m getting much, much stronger trying hard in the warmth. Today, I had a breakthrough and finished Controle Technique 7C+ (V10) in Bas Cuvier. 7o degrees, in the sun, a few temper tantrums, and 50+ attempts later; it was in the bag. In regards to the really hard climbs. I’ve tried them. They are hard. I’ve gotten close. 2 weeks left. Time to execute.
Posted on March 7, 2012
Fontainebleau, France! We are here, and it is wonderful. I can only wonder why it took me so long to get here and I can only wonder why I would ever want to leave. If you are unfortunate enough to have never traveled here, I can assure you that all the good things you’ve heard about the place are true to the power of 10. And all the bad things you may have heard are wrong. It’s that simple.
Posted on February 19, 2012
About two weeks ago I managed to repeat Memory Is Parallax V14 in Estes Park, CO. The history of this particular problem hasn’t been conveyed so well on the internet, so I thought I might clear things up based on the history I’ve been told and experienced. This project, formerly known as the Nicky’s Project, was discovered many years ago by Estes Park locals and was cleaned and attempted for years.
Posted on February 18, 2012
Two weekends ago I had the opportunity to travel to Boston, MA and compete in the 2012 Dark Horse Championships at Metro Rock. Prior to my departure for Boston, the week had been a bit hectic. And the “joys” of traveling were about to make things a bit worse. The same day of the Dark Horse Championships was also the final competition of the Spot Bouldering Series for which it is my responsibility to manage the setting of all the competition problems. I spent Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday stripping and setting The Spot for it’s comp and at the end of the day Friday hopped on a plane to Boston for the Dark Horse competition.
- Jon Glassberg
- Jamie Emerson
- Joe Kinder
- Ryan Olson
- Max Zolotukhin
- Climbing Narc
- The Spot Route Setting Blog
- Paul Robinson
- Hayden Miller
- Tim Kemple
- Kevin Jorgeson
- Verve Blog
- Matt Wilder
- Nicky Dyal
- Daniel Woods
- Revolution Climbing
- Five Ten
- Ethan Pringle
- Dead Point Magazine