Lago Di Garda, just outside of Arco.

I am currently in the small town of Arco, Italy attending the 2011 IFSC World Championships.  This competition is not part of the normal World Cup circuit and it features multiple categories of climbing (lead, boulder, speed, and the Duel!)  It is by far, the largest and most difficult climbing competition that I have ever attended.  Because it only occurs once every 2 years, the event is taken much more seriously.  Last weekend I competed in the Bouldering Qualifiers.  With about 140 competitors, it was overwhelming to say the least.  We were split into two categories randomly (A&B), and then placed on different sets of 5 boulders.  Top 10 for each category advanced to the next round (so 20 total into Semis.)  To put that into perspective, a normal World Cup event consists of only 50-70 competitors, with 20 moving in to the next round.  So qualifiers here, was like 2 World Cups, with 10 less people allowed into the next round per category (A or B).  Hopefully, that all makes sense.  Trust me, I think the whole system is pretty confusing in the first place and can be extremely unfair.  Because there are two sets of problems, you basically have to get lucky and be placed on the boulders that are more your style.  I was lucky, and it still did not help.  I ended up (I think) 18th in my category, which put me in 36th overall, when A & B were combined.  On problem #2, I greased off going for the finish hold, and had I topped the boulder I would have easily made semi-finals.  Looking back, it’s kind of a bummer.  Such are the nature of these comps though.  It all comes down to executing quickly and efficiently.  The problems are not super difficult, just low percentage, and hard to put together quickly.  Physically, nothing felt super difficult, and I didn’t get very tired, so it’s nice to know that I am “in shape” at the very least.  I just need to work harder at being a “skilled competitor”.  Overall, it was a GREAT experience, and I can’t wait to bring back everything that I’ve learned to the States.

After qualifiers, I’ve had quite a few days off.  I’ve been taking advantage of everything that the Trentino region of Italy has to offer and it has been an unreal experience.  Amazing food, stunning scenery, and tons of stuff to do.  Along with the other members of the US Team, I’ve been swimming in the lake, climbing on all the cliffs around the town, and embracing the wonderful Italian life.  I couldn’t be happier.  Check out some random photos from the trip so far:

Flags, the river, and the cliffs.  All around the town…

These banners for the WC are everywhere!

 The bouldering wall.  This was shot during the end of qualifiers.  The field was PACKED for finals!

 Swimming in the lake.  So good.

Underground 9a. An amazing route in an old quarry above the town of Massone.  Entirely manufactured, but it’s close to town, very hard, and has some really cool moves on it.  This photo is of me climbing through the lower crux.  You do a massive dyno to the next big rail, which is a huge jug that you can “bat hang” from. Such cool climbing.  I have the whole thing pretty dialed.  I’ve climbed through the crux final boulder (which is like 8A+ maybe?) 3x in a row.  Feeling psyched!  Headed out to try it again later today.

Anyways, the lead qualifiers for the men are in two days, and I’m actually starting to feel in shape.  I’ll keep posting photos and updates.  Stay tuned!