Comments on: SCS Nationals 2011

By: Carlo Traversi

Carlo Traversi — Fri, 10 Aug 2012 07:23:07 +0000

USA Climbing did release an official statement apologizing for the situation and they changed the results. Unfortunately I’m not sure where to find the link to the press release…

By: Charles

Charles — Fri, 10 Aug 2012 01:03:09 +0000

Did USA Climbing ever make the announcement? Do you have a link to the announcement?

By: Den Canada

Den Canada — Sun, 10 Apr 2011 22:59:39 +0000

Does someone can explain to me why the USA Climbing is not using the same scoring system that is used internationally (IFSC)? The system works well and is fair to everyone. If I remember correctly, ranking at the ABS Nationals was also strange in comparison to the international ranking system?

As the USA Climbing will try to invent new ranking system, there will always be injustices and American athletes will not be well prepared for international competitions. In my humble opinion …

By: Jordan White

Jordan White — Fri, 08 Apr 2011 03:09:20 +0000

Carlo,

Awesome article man, and that sucks about the competition. Personally, I think there are a lot of things that USA climbing needs to work out about their scoring system. At CCS (Collegiate Climbing Series) Nationals last year the routes were scored with a 20% flash bonus meaning that flashing a v5 was worth more than sending the hardest problem in the gym on your second go. Needless to say, it kind of ruined the “redpoint” competition because no one was willing to work a route or problem after one go. It’s not nearly as important as SCS Nationals, but I still hope they fix these systems.

cheers

-J dubs

By: Carlo Traversi

Carlo Traversi — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 23:59:16 +0000

Haha. Yes. So many tears were shed.

By: me

me — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 21:55:14 +0000

seems like carlo is a crybaby

By: Rupple Buttskin

Rupple Buttskin — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 19:50:52 +0000

Carlo,

While i appreciate the well formed article and your attitude of just wanting what is rightfully yours; it is your responsibility to know the rules and regulations of the competition you enter. It was well documented that scoring was going to be 85% finals and 15% qualis. I didn’t compete and knew that information. If one of the lower placed competitors came out and crushed the finals you would have been crying to USAC to use that same scoring method. The bottem line is you are a top notch competitor that people look up to, if you didn’t agree to the rules then you should not have signed up, not complained about it after the fact. It’s setting a bad example for the youth competitors.

I’ll close just by saying great job at SCS Nationals, and I hope you continue to compete. Next time don’t leave it up to the “scoring problem” and destroy like Sasha.

Gavin… really? Calm down sport.

By: chad wolak

chad wolak — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 02:14:08 +0000

I never competed in any comp and I knew the rules… they were posted here (http://www.scsnationals.org/details/index.htm) above the running order. I’m sure you touched usable surface but it’s hard to see that in this video (it was clear that Matty had usable surface). I can see how a judge on the ground could not see you touch the top of the hold. The scoring mistake from qualifiers is of course lame….

best of luck in the WC

By: Kevin Macartney

Kevin Macartney — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 02:02:22 +0000

I’m sorry but I have to disagree with you on one point here. Carlo, the rules for the event were posted on the website you registered for the event on, posted during qualifiers, and given to you on a sheet of paper when you checked into isolation for finals. If you didn’t understand these rules you had ample opportunity to ask questions about them. Saying that you were “unaware of these changes” to the rules is nonsense. It is your responsibility, as an athlete, to read and know the rules of the competition you are competing in.

On your other points I believe you are correct. I have seen, and been subject to, incorrect scoring by judges and incorrect reporting of the results in the past. It is hard to believe that this happens as frequently as it does and worse that it takes an error like this before the athletes take a stand on the issue. It surprises me that even at nationals where they have video of every climber on each route that USA Climbing do not use this evidence to back up the judges score unless an appeal is made. It would slow down the time it takes to get the final results for an event, but it would be well worth the effort to give accurate results to the athletes and the public.

By: GAVIN HEVERLY

GAVIN HEVERLY — Wed, 06 Apr 2011 16:56:50 +0000

Carlo, first off. Great job. Secondly, this is a well formed article. Nicely done. And lastly, I agree whole heartedly that organizations like SCS, ABS, USAC, etc. need to be accountable. That’s some amateur hour bullshit right there. And this is supposed to be the crowning event of the year? The only reason they don’t want to fix the results is because they are embarrassed that they fucked up their biggest event of the year. Hopefully they will do the right thing, acknowledge their mistakes, and put you where you deserve. Not only via phone or email, but PUBLICLY and OFFICIALLY. It’s garbage like this that makes climbers like myself, and pros like you want to run away in a van and just climb and never be seen again. A shame. PONY UP USAC! THE PUBLIC IS WATCHING!